A Fifth Wheel mobile RV home is, essentially, a self-contained home on wheels.  As such it requires the same care and maintenance as any home, as well as the aspects that are unique to the RV's mobility.  You will receive thorough instruction at the point of delivery on how to use and maintain your RV.  It is also essential to familiarise yourself with all the documentation and operating instructions that come with your particular unit.

There maybe some information contained here that is only relevant to units that will be left unoccupied or for those not being connected to services.  UK Granny Annexes will, of-course, provide detailed instruction at the point of delivery and explain areas relevant to your model, usage and installation.


Forest River kindly supply outline information for the care and maintenance of your RV, which we have included here for your reference.  Please contact us if there is anything you are uncertain of regarding your mobile RV home.




  1. The selling dealership is responsible for inspecting both factory and dealer installed components for proper operation. This is known as the pre-delivery inspection and systems check.

  2. Your dealer is required to provide a thorough and complete walk-through demonstration. This demonstration should provide a good understanding of how your new RV operates.

  3. The owner's information packet should be presented at this time. This information should include all warranty cards, component information, operation and maintenance instructions relating to your new RV.

  4. All component warranty forms should be discussed and/or completed at this time. Your selling dealer should assist you in understanding any and all limited warranty provisions to help you avoid loss of warranty for any reason. Ask any questions you may have before leaving the dealership.

  5. Your dealer should provide you with information concerning any need for service for your RV, whether in or out of their area. They should provide contact numbers for the dealership both during and after hours along with contact information for the correct Forest River division.




  1. Regular and proper maintenance - As the owner, you have the responsibility to properly maintain your recreational vehicle. Be sure you have service performed in a timely manner; don't ignore a problem. It isn't always necessary to take your RV to a service center; sometimes a phone call is all that is needed. The service technicians can advise you.

  2. Familiarize yourself with your RV. Observe all the component manufacturers' instructions regarding the use and service of their products.

  3. Complete and send in all the warranty cards. Doing so may help you avoid conditions arising from neglect that are not covered under warranty.

  4. Is the responsibility of the owner to take the camper to an authorized Forest River dealer. Failure to do so, may result in incomplete or no reimbursement for repairs. Please contact your Forest River Customer Service Representative for more information.


NOTE: Modifications to your RV, without written authorization from Forest River Inc., could result in reduction or loss of warranty coverage. Contact your dealer before making such changes.

The following is a list of suggestions to assist you in avoiding most warranty issues:

  1. Read your warranties and review them with your selling dealer. The dealer's obligation is to educate you regarding the proper and safe operation of your RV and all its components.

  2. Be sure to inspect the entire RV and note any service issues.

  3. Locate all paperwork and ask any questions you may have before leaving the dealership.


NOTE: Forest River Inc. wants you to have the best possible adventure with your new RV. To get the most enjoyment out of your new RV and to ensure you fully understand how your new recreational vehicle operates, please address immediately any questions or concerns you may have regarding your RV with your dealer before using your RV for the first time.


NOTE: Use your new recreational vehicle responsibly. Your camper was not designed to be used as a permanent dwelling, but for short-term and recreational use. If you intend to use your RV as permanent housing, it could cause premature wear on your appliances, furnace, water systems, carpet, drapes, upholstery, bedding and interior surfaces. This premature wear caused by permanent residency may be considered abnormal or abusive use and could reduce or in some cases void your warranty coverage.

NOTE: If you have repairs performed by a non-Forest River repair center, you still must return the defective part to Forest River to be considered for warranty repair reimbursement.


Condensation is the change of water from its gaseous form (water vapour) into liquid water. Just as moisture collects on the outside of a glass of cold water during humid weather, moisture can condense on the inside surfaces of your camper. This condition is increased due to the small volume of space and the airtight construction of your mobile RV home.

NOTICE: Mold occurs when condensation is left for prolonged periods of time and is extremely difficult to kill. Controlling condensation inside your RV is the best way to avoid not only mold but dampness as well, both of which can cause damage to your RV and/or its contents.

Condensation can infiltrate the insulation, motors, and working parts of appliances or plumbing pipes to name a few. Even though you may not see condensation, it may be inside the walls, cupboards or under the floor, so it is best to take every precaution to avoid it occurring. Generally, an area that is dark, and where moisture can accumulate, is the most likely spot for mold to grow.

Check for any leaks at the kitchen sink, toilet and bathroom sink. It's also a good idea to check your RV periodically to ensure there is no condensation forming on the windows, which would indicate there is too much moisture in your RV.

If you see signs of excessive condensation, take the necessary steps to remove the moisture to prevent possible damage to the contents or the RV itself.

Below are tips to help contain humidity in your trailer:

  1. Keep indoor humidity low-if possible below 60% (ideally between 30 and 50%) relative humidity. Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter. The meter is a small, inexpensive instrument available at most hardware stores. Some larger campground stores may also have the meters.

  2. Consider using a small dehumidifier to help rid the RV of moisture.

  3. Avoid allowing wet clothing to hang, creating a potential breeding ground for mold.

  4. When showering or bathing, open the roof vents or turn on a fan to allow steam and moisture to escape. Wipe down the shower walls to prevent water evaporation.

  5. Be sure there are no obstructions in any vents and that all vents are properly sealed. Pay particular attention to appliances that produce moisture, such as air conditioners, shower, oven vents, and clothes dryer vents.

  6. Try using the microwave oven instead of the stovetop to boil water or soups for long periods. If you choose to use the stove to boil water or soup, open a window or a vent slightly (even in cold weather) to provide a passage for the air to flow. This will also help restrict the humidity.

  7. Try to recirculate the air by using vent fans or small oscillating fans or your furnace fan. If condensation occurs, keep the windows clean in order to prevent the growth of mold and mildew.

  8. Do not use a ceramic heater as it provides no air movement, which will not aid in ridding the RV of condensation.


WARNING: Damage caused by mold or mildew is a maintenance issue and is not warrantable. You as the owner, are responsible for proper maintenance of your RV. Controlling humidity inside your RV will help to prevent damage which may occur due to neglect.


A recreational vehicle plumbing system has the dual ability to be self-contained with onboard storage or use facilities provided by an external pressurized source. The fresh water system consists of those items which are used to deliver water for your use while the waste water system is made up of the drains and tanks which store and remove water that has been used. Components of the plumbing system consist of strong, lightweight, corrosion-resistant materials that provide long life and easy cleaning. By following the instructions outlined here, you can expect efficient operation with a minimum of maintenance.

Potable (fresh) water is supplied by either the fresh water tank aboard the RV or from an outside source, connected through the city water connection. When using the fresh water tank, the water is pumped through the water lines by means of the water pump. When utilizing an exterior source, such as a campsite water supply, the pump is not needed as the water is already pressurized and will flow through the water supply lines within the trailer.

External Hook-Up

Water provided from outside the recreational vehicle is pressurized by the system from which it is delivered. When you connect your recreational vehicle to an outside source, the fresh water tank and the water pump are kept separate from the remainder of the system by in-line check valves.

NOTE: DO NOT turn the pump on if the fresh water tank is empty. Doing so could cause damage to the pump or a blown circuit may occur.

Attaching to an External Source of Water

  1. Remove the cap from the fresh water inlet on the side of the recreational vehicle.

  2. Attach one end of the fresh water hose to the outside source of water.

  3. Connect the other end of the hose to the RV city water inlet.

  4. Turn on the outside source of water. Gradually open the hot and cold water at the sinks and tub to clear air from the lines. Close the faucets when the water is flowing freely.


NOTE: Do not turn on the water pump when using water from an external source. Only use the water pump when obtaining water stored in your fresh water tank.

To Disconnect from the Outside Water Source

  1. Turn off the outside source of water.

  2. Disconnect the hose from the supply valve and the recreational vehicle inlet.

  3. Remove the hose and store it.

  4. Reinstall the cap on the recreational vehicle inlet.


When an outside source of water is unavailable, water can be drawn from the fresh water storage tank in the RV. The tank is filled through a gravity controlled water spout on the exterior of the vehicle.

Filling the Fresh Water Tank:

  1. Remove the water fill cap.

  2. Water can now be added directly to the tank through the fill spout using a known clean hose or bucket, used only for this purpose.

  3. When the tank is full, replace the water fill cap. Fill Cap is for filling the tank. The City Water Fill connects to domestic water.

While there are several different styles of monitor panels, they all serve the same purpose. They measure and display information regarding levels for water, batteries and propane.

The monitor panel allows you to quickly check the levels in the fresh water and waste water tanks. Electrical sensors at various points on the tanks send signals to the monitor panel. To check fluid levels, press and hold the TEST SWITCH designated for the tanks and read the level indicators on the panel. The indicator is proportioned in quarters with each light indicating the level that the tank contains. Sometimes, residue on the sides of a tank or water with a low mineral content will give a false reading.

Check the levels occasionally when you are sure of the tanks contents and compare it to the reading on the monitor panel. If you are concerned about the accuracy of the monitor panel, have it checked.

NOTE: Remember that the monitor panel has additional functions, such as displaying battery and propane levels.

When using water from the fresh water tank, the system must be pressurized. A self-priming 12 V DC pump is provided to handle this function. A pump ON-OFF switch is located on the monitor panel. The self-contained water pump is a demand system. This means the water pump will automatically turn on when a demand is made on the system.

Initial Start-up System

  1. Be sure the tank is filled with water.

  2. Open all faucets in the recreational vehicle, both hot and cold.

  3. Place the pump control switch in the ON position.

  4. Allow time for the hot water tank to fill. Shut off each faucet as the flow becomes steady and free of air. When the last faucet is turned off, the pump should also shut off.

  5. The system is now ready for use.


The water pump supplied with your RV is designed to deliver a smooth, consistent flow of water at all ranges of operation while drawing only a low current.



Pump cycling may be caused by excessive pressure created by one or more of the following, within a plumbing system:

  • Low flow from partially open tap.

  • Water filters not on separate feed lines

  • Clogged water filters.

  • Restrictive elbows and valves are possible in the first 2 feet after the pump.

  • Flow restrictors in faucets and shower heads.

  • Long lengths of small I.D. ( inside diameter).

  • If replacing pipe/tubing, be sure it is at least ½" I.D. for main lines.


To minimize cycling, consider removing plumbing restrictions or install an accumulator after the pump. Cycling should be minimized to prevent pulsing flow and to achieve maximum pump life.

WARNING! Do not use automotive antifreeze to winterize potable (drinkable) water systems. Such solutions are highly toxic. Ingestion may cause serious injury or death.

Sanitize the system before initial use, after extended periods of no-use, at least once a year during continuous use, and if there is suspicion that the system has been contaminated.


To sanitize the system:


  1. Remove or by-pass water filter, if equipped.

  2. Prepare a chorine solution using a gallon of water and ¼ cup of liquid household bleach (5% sodium hypo-chlorinate solution). Use one gallon of solution for each 15 gallons of tank capacity.

  3. With an empty tank and all taps and drains closed, pump into the tank, via the potable tank fill, either with a manual or electric water pump. Or pour 1/2 cup of bleach (1/4 cup per 15 gallons of capacity) into the hose before connecting it to the water source. The water source pressure will push the chlorine and water into the tank, making the correct solution when the fresh water tank is full.

  4. Completely fill the tank with fresh water.

  5. Switch on the water pump. Open all taps one at a time until all air is purged and the water flows freely.

  6. Again, add fresh water to the tank until the water level reaches the fill spout.

  7. Allow the solution to stand in the tank, undisturbed, for at least three (3) hours.

  8. Drain the system by opening all faucets and the fresh water tank drain valve while flushing the system with fresh water of drinking quality.

  9. Continue flushing the system, allowing the water to flow for several minutes.

  10. Close the tank drain valve and all faucets. Refill the system with water of known drinking quality.


The toilet installed in your mobile RV home is connected to the pressurized fresh water system. A single lever arrangement controls the flushing and the flow of water into the bowl.

  • To add water to the toilet before using, lift the flush lever until the desired water level is reached. (As a general rule, more water is required only when flushing solids.)

  • To flush the toilet, push the lever all the way down until the sewage leaves the toilet.

  • Release the flush lever. A small amount of water should remain in the bowl.

  • Be sure to hold the flush lever down long enough to release the contents of the bowl, but not longer than necessary as this will result in excessive water usage.

Unnecessary, frequent flushing of the toilet will quickly deplete your fresh water supply and fill your holding tank. If the black water tank becomes full, you will no longer be able to flush the stool until the tank can be drained. Be sure all occupants and guests understand this operation.

Always use deodorizing agents specifically designed for use in holding tank systems and a good biodegradable tissue paper. These products are available directly from your dealer or any store that sells camp supplies.

Never use chlorine or caustic chemicals such as drain opener or laundry bleach in your toilet.

Never allow foreign objects (non-dissolving items) to be flushed through the toilet.

Don't allow a problem to go unsolved. As soon as you detect a problem, take the necessary steps to correct it. It is also a good idea to carry a few spare parts that will correct a small problem that may develop. Refer to the toilet manufacturer's information in your Owner's packet to determine which part you may need, its correct name and part number. 



The holding tanks are located approximately beneath the bathroom area. Drain valves and drain hose storage are usually located on the driver's side.

The storage tanks are constructed of strong, lightweight polyethylene, which minimizes both weight and maintenance. Some models may have two gray water tanks and one black water tank.

If possible, dump holding tanks before a trip to reduce the gross vehicle weight. Enough water should be kept in the black water tank to cover the bottom to prevent hardening of any residue that may remain. Never dump black water tank until it is 3/4 full. This practice ensures that enough water is in the tank to flush all wastes into sewer line. If necessary, fill the tank to the ¾ mark with additional water before draining.

Never put anything in the holding tanks other than normal drain water, wastes and biodegradable products. Paper wrappers, gum, cigarettes, etc., no matter how small, should NEVER be placed into either the gray or black tanks.

NOTE: You can find biodegradable paper products at most stores that sell camping supplies and at campgrounds that have a store on the premises. You can also find chemical substitutes to deposit into the waste tanks if you prefer.

NOTE: It is important to note that harmful and toxic materials can accumulate if the holding tanks are not regularly drained and thoroughly rinsed. It is also important to use holding tank deodorizing and cleaning agents in the waste water tanks to reduce orders and keep the lines open and free flowing.

Empty the Holding Tanks

  1. Remove the sewer drain hose from its storage compartment on the side of the recreational vehicle.

  2. Remove the cap from the RV drain and connect the drain hose to it.

  3. Attach the other end of the flexible drain line to the dump station inlet. Be sure both ends of the flexible drain line are securely attached.

  4. Drain the black water tank first by pulling the termination valve handle toward you. Be sure to allow sufficient time for the tank to completely drain, and then rinse the tank with several gallons of water by depressing the stool pedal or hand flush handle. Close the valve on the stool and let it fill before releasing to the tank. This creates additional force to flush the tank more completely.

  5. Drain the gray water tank by pulling the termination valve handle toward you. Draining the gray tank last uses the soapy water in the tank to rinse the drain and flexible hose.

  6. When tanks are emptied, close termination valves by pushing handles back to closed positions.

  7. Remove flexible drain hose and wash it thoroughly with clean water. Remove the other end from the dump station inlet and replace it in its storage compartment. Secure the sewer hose storage cover, and replace the caps on both the recreational vehicle outlet and the dump station inlet.


NOTE: If your model is equipped with a Thetford Sanicon System, please refer to the manufacturer's manual.

  • Follow these guidelines to help ensure trouble-free operation:

    • Never put anything in the black water tank other than biodegradable RV toilet paper.

    • Do not put automotive antifreeze, household toilet cleaner or drain cleaners, or any solid material into the waste water system.

    • Always use chemicals in the black water system that are made especially for this purpose.

    • When cleaning components of the waste water system, use cleaners made for RV systems.

    • Always keep the drain cap in place and termination valves close.

    • After every third time the holding tanks are emptied, fill and flush both tanks with clean, fresh water a couple of times to keep them clear and clean.


Keeping the black water tank clean allows the monitor panel to accurately assess the status of the tank. Always remember to clean up the dump site before leaving. Never empty your holding tanks directly on the ground or into a river, stream or any water course.

As with any mechanical system, your plumbing is subject to the development of problems. Most of these problems can be greatly reduced, if not eliminated, by following a schedule of planned inspections and maintenance. Neglect of proper maintenance procedures is the usual cause of most water system problems.

Road vibrations and shocks, as well as excessive pressure from some city water sources, are the main physical causes of water system damage. It is important to inspect all plumbing joints and fittings often for cracks and leaks. If left unchecked, water leaking from a plumbing joint can cause considerable damage.

A leak in the fresh water system should be suspected if the pump is running and all faucets and valves are closed. When the leaking fitting has been identified, attempt to stop the leak by tightening the fitting. DO NOT over-tighten. Plastic fittings rarely need to be tightened with a wrench. If these fittings leak after tightening by hand, disconnect the fitting and check for dirt, scale, or other foreign substances which may be causing the leak. Clean the fitting thoroughly and reinstall. If leaking persists, shut off the water supply until the fitting can be properly replaced. Check with your dealer for the correct method of replacement and replacement parts.

Proper winterization procedures of plumbing systems will normally be all that is necessary to prevent the damage caused by freezing. Freezing damage can harm any component of the system, including the water tanks, toilet, pump and all piping. Be sure to follow the winterization procedures outlined in this manual. Also be sure to discuss with your dealer or repair center any additional precautions that should be taken to winterize your RV's plumbing system. Local climates vary and winter maintenance needs may be affected.

Be sure to read the literature supplied with plumbing components, such as the water pump, for troubleshooting tips. Also remember that it is possible for an electrical problem to cause water system problems. Lack of power to the pump can be caused by a variety of reasons.

If you are unsure of how to locate and/or repair a plumbing problem, it is best to have your dealer or a qualified plumber who is familiar with the RV water system to inspect the system and perform any repairs needed.



WARNING: Before operating the furnace, check the location of the furnace vent to be sure it will not be blocked by the opening of any door on the truck camper (or by exterior items such as a bush or a tree).

Tips to ensure continued safe operation of the furnace

  • Inspect furnace venting. Venting must be free of obstruction and soot.

  • Periodically observe the main burner flame to ensure it is burning with a hard blue flame. If the flame appears yellow or lazy, shut the furnace down. The burner may need to be cleaned or replaced.

Keep the furnace area clear of any combustible materials, gasoline or other flammable vapor and liquids.

NOTE: To properly observe burner operation, the furnace must be removed. This should only be done by your dealer or qualified service center.

WARNING: Do not install screens over the vent for any reason. Doing so can cause unsafe furnace operation.

WARNING: Should overheating occur or the propane supply fails to shut off, shut off the manual propane valve to the appliance before shutting off the electrical supply.

WARNING! Be sure the furnace and all ignition systems are off during refueling and while the vehicle is in motion.

WARNING! Read the furnace manufacturer's user manual. If the information in the manual is not followed exactly, a fire or explosion may result, causing property damage, personal injury, or loss of life. For more information, please consult the individual owner's manual.

WARNING!  If You Smell Propane:

  • Extinguish any open flame.

  • Evacuate all persons from the vehicle.

  • Shut off the propane supply at the propane container or source.

  • Do not touch any electrical switch or use the phone or radio in the vehicle.

  • Do not start a generator.

  • Contact the nearest propane supplier or qualified service center for repairs.


Many factors influence the ambient temperature inside your RV. The purpose of a thermostat is to keep the air temperature at the level you have selected.

There are several things you can do to help manage the inside temperature to avoid over-stressing your heating and cooling appliances.


  1. Check to be sure there are no gaps in windows or doors that would allow loss of heat.

  2. Park the RV so the front or rear of the RV takes the brunt of wind force.

  3. Have your furnace checked to ensure it is operating at its highest capacity.

  4. Keep all vents free of obstruction.


Setting the temperature and leaving the thermostat on AUTO will allow the device to detect changes in temperature. While some people lower the temperature at night or when leaving the RV, when you return and reset the thermostat, the furnace or air conditioner has to run longer to reach the new temperature you set. It is recommended to set it at a comfortable temperature and leave it.



  1. Park the RV in a shaded area.

  2. Use window shades, blinds or curtains.

  3. Keep windows and doors shut or minimize usage.

  4. Avoid the use of heat producing appliances.

  5. Installing window awnings will reduce heat gain by removing direct exposure to the sun.


Starting the air conditioner in the morning and giving it a head start on the expected high outdoor ambient temperature will greatly improve its ability to maintain the desired indoor temperature.

Whether using the HEATING or the COOLING function of your thermostat, condensation is always an issue. Keeping your RV at a constant temperature helps keep condensation at a minimum. For more information on the effects of condensation on your RV, refer to Living Quarters section.

Air Conditioning

Your recreational vehicle may be equipped with an optional roof-mounted air conditioner. It operates on 120VAC power and is located in the living/dining area and also in the bedroom area of some models. Your RV may have come factory equipped with the wiring and necessary bracing for the insertion of an air conditioner even if it was purchased without the air conditioner installed at the factory. Check with your dealer for additional information.

Refer to the air conditioner manufacturer's users' manual for complete operating and service instructions. Efficiency when using the air conditioning can be increased by closing all windows and curtains and parking your RV in the shade. Air conditioning consumes a large portion of the electric power available in the recreational vehicle and efficient operation can be an important consideration.

Even though your recreational vehicle is equipped with 30 or 50 amp capabilities, be aware that some campgrounds may offer less than 30 amp service. Check with the campground before utilizing excessive power, which may create a fire hazard or trip breakers, in either the recreational vehicle or the outside power source.

NOTE: Always turn off the air conditioner (and all electrical appliances) before disconnecting the RV from its 120VAC power source.

NOTE: If you cover the outside portion of your air conditioner during periods of storage, be sure to remove protective cover before reusing.

NOTE: The RV Owner's Manual states that no excessive exterior air should be allowed to enter the RV during Air Conditioner operation. An open door or window can lead to the exterior warm, humid air to condense onto cold surfaces around the Air Conditioner.


NOTE: Carefully follow the water heater manufacturer's detailed instructions regarding the correct operation of your water heater. Failure to do so could void your warranty.

NOTE: Water heaters require very little care. However, the most common cause of problems with your water heater is initiating operation before the tank is filled with water. Even running it for a brief period of time without water will damage the electric heating element.

NOTE: Prior to operating the RV's water heater for the first time, be sure there is water in the water heater tank. Be sure that the water heater bypass valve, if installed, is open to allow water flow into the tank. Next, connect the RV to a water source or turn on the onboard water pump. Open a hot-water tap and wait until water is flowing with no air in the line. When water is flowing from the tap, the water heater tank is full, and it is safe to operate the water heater.

WARNING! Do not store or use petrol or other combustible materials or liquids near or adjacent to the water heater or any other appliance.


Automatic Shut Off

The water heater is equipped with a high temperature limit switch, which will shut down the water heater if the temperature reaches above 180 ° F. If the limit switch should fail, the water heater is equipped with a pressure relief valve which is designed to open if the temperature of the water reaches 210 ° F or if excessive pressure builds up. The valve will close automatically once the pressure falls below 50 PSI. Until the pressure falls below 50 PSI, dripping may occur. This is normal and indicates the pressure relief valve is functioning properly by releasing pressure, causing temporary dripping.

For more information, please consult the individual owner's manual.


NOTE: If your water heater plumbing system is equipped with a bypass kit, use it to close off the water heater, drain it completely and leave it closed (in the bypass position). If you are introducing antifreeze into the system, be aware that it can be very corrosive to the anode rod causing premature failure and leaving heavy sediment in the tank (if so equipped).


Water Odor

Odor from the water is not a warranty or service issue. Many water supplies contain enough sulphur to produce a 'rotten egg' odor. It is not harmful, only unpleasant. The solution is to chlorinate the water. You may add about 6 ounces of common household liquid bleach per 10 gallons of water in the tank.

Run the chlorinated water throughout the system, opening each faucet one at a time until you smell the chlorine. Do not operate the water system for a couple hours, allowing the chlorine to take care of the problem; however, then you must remove the chlorine by flushing the system with fresh water. You may need to do this more than once. If this process does not remove the smell from the water, you may need to replace the anode rod. You may also consider adding a filtering system as a preventive measure.

If you cannot reach a propane supplier or qualified service center, call the fire department.


WARNING!  Do not turn on the propane supply until the propane leak(s) has been repaired. You, as the owner/user, should inspect the furnace monthly during the heating season for presence of soot on the vent. The presence of soot indicates incomplete combustion. Operating the furnace under this condition could lead to serious property damage, personal injury or loss of life. If soot is observed on the vent, immediately shut the furnace down and contact a qualified service center.


Periodic maintenance and cleaning of your recreational vehicle are necessary to retain the dependability, safety and appearance that will provide you with many miles of trouble-free operation was well as protecting your investment.

Keep good records of maintenance functions performed and be sure to follow all owner obligations as may be required by the chassis manufacturer to keep your warranty in force.

It is also important to note that operating conditions will affect service timetables. Driving in extreme conditions, such as heavy dust, continuous short trips, or start-and-stop heavy traffic, means that the length of time between service appointments will be shortened.


Discuss service timetables with both your dealer and chassis service representative.

Preventative maintenance will pay for itself many times over by catching or preventing problems before they occur. Many repair costs are greatly increased by ignoring problems when they are small ones, allowing them to build into larger problems and possibly voiding your warranty due to neglect, misuse or abuse. If left unattended, small problems may also begin to affect other parts and systems of the recreational vehicle.


The care of all fiberglass is basically the same as any automotive finish. Any finish will deteriorate with time. Dulling and fading can be increased by exposure to extreme sunlight, air pollutants and excessive moisture. Regular washing will help prevent this from occurring. If surface deterioration, such as yellowing or chalking, occurs, consult with your dealer for proper procedures.

  • Wash the exterior monthly with warm water and a mild detergent.

  • Avoid spraying water directly into refrigerator and furnace vents.

  • Immediately remove bird droppings, tree sap, insects and tar to avoid staining.

  • Wax a least once a year with a standard liquid or paste wax.

  • Prolonged storage of the RV should be in a sheltered environment when possible.


NOTE: Physical damage to fiberglass should be addressed immediately to avoid moisture entering through breaks and causing problems with interior walls and components. Cover breaks in the fiberglass with plastic, sealing the edges with tape until proper repairs can be made.


It is important to maintain the seals and adhesives to prevent moisture from entering and destroying recreational vehicle components. When washing your RV, inspect the seals for signs of drying out and wear. Be aware that weather and road vibration will have an effect on seals, causing them to dry, crack or separate. If you are unsure what to look for, have your dealer instruct you regarding the correct method for renewing the seals, or you may prefer to have the dealership inspect and reseal your RV if necessary.

NOTE: Failure to maintain seals through regular maintenance can lead to damage and may be considered abusive treatment under terms of your recreational vehicle warranty.


Frequent pump cycling may be caused by excessive pressure created by one or more of the following within the plumbing system:

  • Low flow from partially open faucet.

  • Water filters not on separate feed lines.

  • Clogged water filters.

  • Restrictive elbows and valves are possible in the first 2 feet after the pump.

  • Flow restrictors in faucets and showerheads.

  • Long lengths of small I.D. (inside diameter) lines.

  • If replacing pipe/tubing, be sure it is at least 1⁄2" I.D. (inside diameter) for main lines.


To minimize cycling, consider removing plumbing restrictions or install an accumulator after the pump. Cycling should be minimized to prevent pulsing flow and to achieve maximum pump life.

The water pump supplied with your RV is designed to deliver a smooth, consistent flow of water at all ranges of operation while drawing only a low current.


Check the seals around the windows regularly (at least every 6 months) if sealant is present. Follow the above instructions for care and maintenance of window and door seals and repair as necessary and if applicable.

Adjust and lubricate latches and moving parts annually to ensure windows remain operative. Also check the condition and operation of door locks, adjusting and lubricating as necessary.

Vinyl seals around windows and doors should be cleaned regularly and kept flexible by using a silicone spray or lubricant. Be sure to follow the directions on the product container.


Check the condition of the frame regularly. Keep it clean and repaint as necessary, to help avoid rust.

It is especially important to keep underbody components clean when driving your recreational vehicle in the winter, in areas where road salts are used. To help avoid surface pitting, clean and wax all extrusions, when waxing RV sidewalls. Special aluminum cleaners are available to restore the original luster to aluminum surfaces. Be sure to follow the instructions as outlined on the product package.


Inspection of roof components at least twice a year, is very important to make sure seams and seals are not cracked or worn. Proper maintenance of seals is necessary to keep moisture from entering and causing severe damage such as rot, mold or mildew. If you encounter dry, cracked or weathered seals, reseal or replace as necessary. Check with your dealer for the type of caulking required for rubber roofs and correct methods of resealing or replacing. A mild household soap solution and a soft brush can be used to clean a rubber roof.

WARNING: Use caution when storing items on the roof. If a factory-installed roof rack and/or ladder are present, the roof has been reinforced. If you have an aftermarket roof rack or ladder, use extreme caution when on the roof. Chances are that your roof has no reinforcement, and you may need to use boards across the roof for temporary reinforcement. (Remember to remove the boards when leaving the roof area.)

WARNING: If your roof should become punctured or ripped, cover the puncture or tear to seal out moisture and have it repaired immediately.

WARNING: If a factory installed roof rack and/or ladder are present, the roof has been reinforced. If you add an aftermarket roof rack or ladder, use extreme caution when on the roof. You may need to use boards across the roof for temporary reinforcement. (remember to remove the boards when leaving the roof area.)


To ensure proper operation, have the propane system checked frequently for leaks and road damage. The entire system, including regulator pressure, should be checked annually or sooner if you suspect a problem. Have the system checked by a qualified propane service technician using proper equipment. The method of checking the system for leaks and propane safety precautions can be found in the Identification and Safety section.

NOTE: Line pressure for propane appliances should be checked at least every six months. Most propane suppliers have equipment to test the lines. The optimum line pressure for all RV propane appliances is 11 inches of water column pressure.


Check the operation of exterior lights often. Check clearance, turn signal, brake and back-up lights to be sure they are working correctly. Replace any cracked, broken or missing light covers to avoid moisture infiltration and possible damage to the electrical system.


Please get in touch with UK Granny Annexes if you have further questions regarding Fifth Wheel and Travel Trailer mobile RV homes.


Whether you buy or hire, get familiar with your mobile RV home